Armageddon is always the highlight of any walk, and this superb city hike offers an unusual and possibly heretical opportunity to start with the End of the World. It is, after all, conveniently located near York station, inside All Saints Church. In fact, our walk is a circular one, so could begin at any point, even at our ultimate destination, the Phoenix Inn.
As you emerge from York station, the 14th-century city walls are in front of you. Built on earthen ramparts that mark much earlier defences, they are Britain’s longest intact medieval walls and can be walked for most of their route. Head left, passing under the wall and you will see a couple of access points. But I promised Armageddon and you must have it. A couple of hundred metres down North Street is All Saints Church, one of York’s less-visited gems.
As you explore the historic city of York, make sure to pay attention to the small details that hold fascinating stories. Direct your gaze to the left of the entrance and you'll notice a humble hole in the wall. Believe it or not, this unassuming space was once the dwelling of Walter Wilman, Britain's last hermit and a veteran of the Great War, who resided there until the 1970s.
Entering the nave, your eyes will be drawn to the magnificent 15th-century hammer-beam ceiling above you. Adorned with beautifully painted wooden figures, these lively characters are often perceived as angels, although one might bear a striking resemblance to the prominent figure Priti Patel. Take a moment to observe the nearby Prick of Conscience window, a stunning piece of art from the early 15th century. This window showcases the last 15 days of life on Earth, providing a remarkably accurate scientific portrayal of humanity's final moments - from tumultuous sea level changes to catastrophic ocean heating, culminating in an ultimate inferno.
Moreover, don't miss the opportunity to marvel at the array of medieval stained glass throughout. A noteworthy detail to search for is a depiction of a man wearing spectacles, hinting at the existence of eyewear even in those ancient times.
Discover the intriguing history and hidden gems of York as you venture towards your next destination: the Phoenix Inn, a delightful local pub. Cheers to a truly immersive York experience!
After surviving the whirlwind of Armageddon, turn your footsteps back to North Street. A glance to the left will reveal a modern structure made of stone, a stark illustration of how city development can lead to unfortunate results. Traverse under the towering arches, ascend the grand steps, and set your sights on Lendal Bridge. Where you'd find numerous ancient towers (which now serve as lively cafes), you will encounter the rare piece of the wall that prevents passage. Yet, there's an option to detour into the oasis of green known as the Museum Gardens, home to one of the best-preserved Roman defences: the Multangular Tower. Its creation traces back probably to the third century, with its Roman heritage evident in the smaller stones lining the base of the structure. Be sure not to rush your visit, because the museum plays host to one of the most exciting finds of 2020: the Ryedale Hoard, discovered by individuals wielding nothing but metal detectors.
Embark on a captivating journey through historic York, starting at the Phoenix Inn, a local pub that is sure to charm you with its cozy ambience and wide selection of drinks. As you make your way towards York Art Gallery, take a moment to appreciate its captivating surroundings and perhaps indulge in a pit stop at the charming on-site cafe.
Continue your exploration by passing through Bootham Bar, an ancient gateway that dates back to the Roman fort, but was reconstructed in the 14th century. Don't miss the fascinating door knocker, added in 1501, which Scottish visitors were once required to use. For a brief detour, head up High Petergate to catch a glimpse of the awe-inspiring Minster, but be prepared for a day's adventure if you choose to dive into its grandeur.
Returning to Bootham Bar, ascend the steps and follow the wall, relishing the picturesque views of the Minster framed by delightful gardens. Marvel at the well-preserved narrower sections of the wall, providing an immersive experience into the city's rich history. As you meander along, you'll eventually reach Monk Bar, where a small museum awaits, offering insights into the intriguing life of Richard III, a local autocrat who was also accused of being a child murderer.
Throughout your explorations, you'll discover that cafes are never more than a few steps away, allowing you to refuel with a delightful beverage or some delicious treats. Take your time to savor the atmosphere and soak in the charm of York's streets as you pause for a well-deserved break.
The journey along the historic walls of York takes you through a fascinating route filled with intriguing remnants of the past. As you ascend the steps, you'll encounter the remains of a Georgian ice house, a testament to the city's architectural heritage. A noteworthy highlight is Peasholme Green, a once impassable swamp that was left unsecured, resulting in the absence of a wall.
Continuing your ascent on the walls, you'll reach Micklegate Bar, where the heads of rebels were displayed as a grim warning. This grim reminder of York's rebellious history gives the walk a haunting quality.
For a brief interlude, follow the Inner Ring Road until the striking Red Tower appears before you. From there, rejoin the protective walls of the city, tracing your steps all the way to the Barbican gate and onwards to Fishergate. Nestled beneath the ramparts lies your ultimate destination, the Phoenix Inn, a charming local pub that perfectly embodies the character of historic York.
The Barbican gate, marked by pinkish blotches on the archway, serves as a poignant reminder of the rebellion of 1489. These stains were left by fires ignited following King Henry VII's attempt to raise taxes to support his Breton holdings, an unpopular move that alienated the Yorkists, especially considering the recent overthrowing of Richard III.
Continuing along the wall, you'll make your way to Fishergate Postern, a structure erected around 1500, devised to safeguard a dam over the River Foss that was crucial in inflating defensive moats. This tower boasts roughly 20 open days per year. From here, weave your way towards the Castle Museum and onto Clifford’s Tower, a 13th-century stronghold recently benefitted from a £5m renovation care of English Heritage. Post crossing Skeldergate Bridge, ascend back onto the wall to relish a pleasant, extended amble to Micklegate Bar. It is notorious for being the ominous site where rebellious heads were displayed, including Sir Henry “Hotspur” Percy in 1403, post-mortem in Shropshire.
Exploring Micklegate is rewarded with a handful of culinary delights including, Partisan serving breakfast, lunch, and tea and Skosh, adept in serving lunch and dinner. Refreshed and reinvigorated, you can realign with your wall journey to finish near the railway station.
Commencing point: York railway station
Length of journey: 3 miles
Duration: Approximately 3 hours interspersed with breaks
Difficulty level: Easy
The pub
When exploring historic York, don't miss the opportunity to visit the Phoenix Inn, a traditional pub located right next to the city walls. This charming establishment boasts a front bar adorned with red leather seats, polished tables, and panels repurposed from the railway carriage works, creating a nostalgic atmosphere.
On chilly evenings, the open fire crackles, inviting guests to cozy up on the red leather seats while enjoying a drink. The well-preserved bow-fronted bar adds a touch of elegance that has recently been restored to its former glory.
For those seeking live music, the lounge at the rear comes alive three times a week with jazz sessions, featuring the standup piano and local maestro Karl Mullen skillfully playing the keys on Fridays. On such music nights, the soulful notes of Thelonius Monk's piano may greet guests as they step through the door, adding to the pub's unique charm.
Unlike many modern establishments, the Phoenix Inn offers a serene environment perfect for reading and enjoying a peaceful pint. No intrusive TVs, sports channels, or gambling machines disrupt the tranquil ambiance. However, take note of the clock hanging above the fireplace, whose ticks can sometimes be heard resounding throughout the room.
The Phoenix Inn, managed skillfully by Paul Rodgers and Mark Taylor, prides itself on its simple yet delightful ale-focused offering. Here, aficionados can enjoy five varieties of locally sourced hand-pulled ales from breweries such as Wold Top, Timothy Taylor, and Saltaire, occasionally featuring special beers from other brewers like Turning Point in Knaresborough. When it comes to the fare, it's all about 'Yorkshire tapas'. According to Paul, you can expect "nuts, crisps, and pork pies" making for hearty, home-style bites. And to enhance your overall experience, there's a serene beer garden tucked away at the back, bordered by the historic city walls for you to gaze at.
Find out more by visiting the Phoenix Inn website.
Lodging Options
While the Phoenix Inn doesn't offer on-site sleeping quarters, there are several excellent places to stay located adjacent to the city walls. One such convenient locale is the Bar Convent; situated just a stone's throw from Micklegate Bar, it's a perfect spot to begin and culminate your exploratory walk. Bear in mind this is an active convent, rather than a regular hotel. The ambiance is a hybrid of a friendly guesthouse and a hostel. The rooms (doubles start around £110 B&B, bar-convent.org.uk), originally novice cells, are far from stark or drab. The premium rooms offer a delightful view of the lush courtyard. Extravagant breakfasts are offered in the café within the convent, which also serves meals all day long, albeit with a restricted range of alcoholic beverages. If you're seeking a more traditional hotel experience within the same historic area, you might want to consider accommodations listed on yorkshire-hotel.com. This website features a collection of local hotels, each with its own unique charm and amenities to suit a range of preferences and budgets. For those wanting a broader overview of what the UK has to offer in terms of accommodations, tophotels.com is an excellent resource. This site provides a comprehensive list of top hotels throughout the United Kingdom, including user reviews and ratings to help you make the most informed decision for your stay. Whether you're looking for luxury or budget-friendly options, you're sure to find a place that caters to your comfort and style.